Goldline Controls, now part of the Hayward family, is known for producing reliable pool automation systems, timers, and saltwater chlorination equipment. Their popular models—like the AquaRite Salt Chlorinator—have made pool care much simpler for homeowners. But even well-built systems can run into issues after years of service. Understanding how to troubleshoot these problems can save you money, reduce downtime, and keep your pool water sparkling.
This guide will walk you through the most common Goldline Controls issues, explain why they happen, and give you practical, step-by-step solutions. While many fixes can be done at home, we’ll also cover when it’s best to call a professional.
How Goldline Controls Systems Work
Goldline Controls units act as the “brains” of your pool equipment. They monitor water flow, temperature, and salt levels, then control pumps, heaters, lights, and other accessories. In saltwater pools, the chlorinator cell inside the plumbing line converts salt into chlorine through electrolysis. This process is automatic once the system is set up, but it depends on sensors, clean connections, and correct water chemistry to work properly.
Because these systems combine electrical components with water-based sensors, most issues fall into one of three categories: power problems, sensor faults, or component wear.
Common Goldline Controls Problems and Fixes
1. No Power to the Unit
Symptoms: The display screen is blank, and no lights are on.
Possible causes:
- Tripped breaker or GFCI outlet
- Loose wiring connections inside the control box
- Faulty power supply board
What to do:
- Check your home’s breaker panel and reset any tripped breakers.
- If using a GFCI outlet, press the reset button.
- Inspect the wiring connections inside the control box with the power off—look for corrosion or looseness.
- If incoming power is present but the unit is still dead, the power board may need replacement.
2. “No Flow” Light Stays On
Symptoms: The system will not produce chlorine because it believes there’s no water circulation.
Possible causes:
- Pool pump not running
- Dirty or faulty flow switch
- Incorrect installation of the flow switch in the plumbing
What to do:
- Ensure the pool pump is on before the chlorinator starts.
- Shut off power, remove the flow switch, and gently clean debris from the paddle.
- Verify the arrow on the switch body matches water flow direction.
- If the switch is damaged or the cable is frayed, replace it.
3. Low or No Chlorine Output
Symptoms: Salt level is within range, but chlorine levels in the pool remain low.
Possible causes:
- Calcium buildup on the salt cell plates
- Cell reaching end of life (typically 3–7 years)
- Low stabilizer (CYA) levels in pool water
- High organic load consuming chlorine faster than it’s produced
What to do:
- Turn off the system and remove the cell for inspection.
- If you see white scale, soak the cell in a 4:1 water-to-acid solution for a few minutes, then rinse.
- Test stabilizer levels; aim for 70–80 ppm for saltwater pools.
- If the cell is more than five years old and output has dropped significantly, consider replacement.
4. Incorrect Salt Reading
Symptoms: The display shows a salt level much higher or lower than actual test results.
Possible causes:
- Dirty or scaled cell affecting sensor accuracy
- Water temperature below 60°F (readings can be inaccurate in cold water)
- System needs recalibration
What to do:
- Clean the cell to remove scale or debris.
- Verify salt level with a reliable test kit or digital meter.
- If necessary, follow your model’s manual to recalibrate the salt reading.
5. “Inspect Cell” Light On
Symptoms: Light flashes or stays lit, sometimes accompanied by reduced chlorine production.
Possible causes:
- Routine maintenance reminder (every 500 hours of use)
- Excessive scaling or damage to the cell
What to do:
- Remove the cell and check for buildup or broken plates.
- Clean with the recommended acid solution if scaled.
- Reset the “Inspect Cell” light according to your manual.
6. Corrosion or Burn Marks in the Control Box
Symptoms: Visible damage on circuit boards or terminals.
Possible causes:
- Moisture getting into the control box
- Power surges or lightning strikes
What to do:
- Replace damaged components or boards as needed.
- Seal any gaps in the control box housing to prevent water entry.
- Install a surge protector to safeguard against future damage.
Basic Reset and Diagnostic Check
For many Goldline Controls units, a quick reset can clear temporary errors:
- Turn off power at the breaker.
- Wait 30 seconds.
- Turn power back on and observe the startup sequence.
- Enter diagnostic mode (check manual) to review sensor readings like temperature, voltage, and salinity.
Preventive Maintenance Tips
- Check water chemistry weekly—especially salt, stabilizer, and pH.
- Clean the salt cell every 3–6 months, or when prompted.
- Inspect wiring annually for corrosion or looseness.
- Mount control units in shaded, dry locations to prevent overheating and moisture damage.
- Keep pump timers and automation settings in sync with the chlorinator’s run schedule.
When to Call a Professional
While many problems are fixable at home, certain situations require expert help:
- Major water intrusion into the control unit
- Motor driver or main board replacement
- Persistent “No Flow” error despite switch replacement
- Electrical issues beyond basic wiring checks
If your system is under warranty, always use an authorized Hayward/Goldline service center to avoid voiding coverage.
Quick Recap
- No power: Check breaker, GFCI, wiring, and power board.
- No Flow: Verify pump operation, clean or replace flow switch.
- Low chlorine: Clean cell, check stabilizer, replace old cell.
- Wrong salt reading: Clean cell, test manually, recalibrate.
- Inspect Cell light: Clean or replace cell, reset light.
- Burn marks: Repair boards, improve sealing, add surge protection.
Goldline Controls systems are dependable when maintained regularly. By learning to spot early warning signs and applying these troubleshooting steps, you can keep your pool automation and chlorination running smoothly all season long.