SwimPure Plus Troubleshooting: Complete Salt System Guide

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The Hayward SwimPure Plus is a saltwater chlorination system designed to keep your pool clean and sanitized automatically. Instead of adding chlorine manually, it uses electrolysis to convert dissolved salt into chlorine gas, which instantly dissolves in water. When it’s working right, it’s nearly effortless. But if you start seeing warning lights, reduced chlorine output, or unusual readings, you’ll need to know how to troubleshoot it effectively.

This guide walks through the most common SwimPure Plus problems, their causes, and how to fix them. We’ll also cover maintenance habits to keep your system running smoothly for years.

How the SwimPure Plus Works

The SwimPure Plus consists of two main components: the control box and the salt cell. Water passes through the cell, where coated metal plates convert salt into chlorine. The control box monitors water flow, salt level, and output settings, adjusting chlorine production based on your preferences. Sensors and safety circuits stop generation if conditions aren’t right—protecting both the equipment and your pool.

Common SwimPure Plus Problems and Solutions

1. “No Flow” Light On

Symptoms: The “No Flow” light is illuminated, and the system is not producing chlorine.

Possible causes:

  • Pool pump not running
  • Flow switch stuck or dirty
  • Low pump speed on variable-speed pump
  • Incorrect plumbing or installation of flow switch

What to do:

  1. Make sure the pump is running before the chlorinator starts.
  2. Inspect and clean the flow switch paddle to remove debris.
  3. Increase pump RPM if using a variable-speed pump.
  4. Check flow switch orientation—arrow should match water flow direction.

2. “Check Salt” or “Low Salt” Light On

Symptoms: Salt warning lights are lit, possibly with reduced or stopped chlorine production.

Possible causes:

  • Salt level below recommended range (2700–3400 ppm)
  • Cold water temperature affecting sensor readings
  • Sensor or cell scaling causing inaccurate readings

What to do:

  1. Test salt level with a reliable kit or meter—don’t rely solely on the display.
  2. Add pool-grade salt if below recommended range.
  3. In cold water below ~60°F (15°C), low salt warnings may appear even if level is correct—wait for water to warm.
  4. Clean the cell if scaling is visible.

3. “Inspect Cell” Light On

Symptoms: The light comes on as a maintenance reminder or due to performance issues.

Possible causes:

  • Routine cleaning reminder (every 500 operational hours)
  • Calcium buildup on plates reducing efficiency
  • Damaged cell plates from wear

What to do:

  1. Remove the cell and inspect for white scale or debris.
  2. Clean in a mild acid solution (4:1 water to acid) for a few minutes—never scrape plates with metal tools.
  3. Rinse thoroughly and reinstall.
  4. If plates are worn or missing coating, replace the cell.

4. Low or No Chlorine in Pool

Symptoms: Pool water tests show low chlorine despite normal salt readings and no error lights.

Possible causes:

  • Output setting too low
  • High chlorine demand from heavy use, heat, or algae
  • Low stabilizer (CYA) levels causing chlorine loss in sunlight
  • Cell nearing end of life

What to do:

  1. Increase output percentage on the control panel.
  2. If pool is cloudy or has algae, shock it with liquid chlorine before relying on the SWG again.
  3. Maintain CYA levels between 70–80 ppm for saltwater pools.
  4. Replace the cell if output remains low after cleaning and adjustments.

5. Inaccurate Salt Reading

Symptoms: Displayed salt level doesn’t match test kit results.

Possible causes:

  • Dirty cell affecting conductivity readings
  • Temperature swings affecting sensor accuracy
  • Calibration drift over time

What to do:

  1. Clean the cell thoroughly.
  2. Verify salt level with a manual test before adding salt.
  3. Recalibrate salt reading using control box diagnostics if available for your model.

6. Unit Won’t Power On

Symptoms: No display, no lights.

Possible causes:

  • Tripped breaker or GFCI
  • Faulty power connection
  • Blown fuse inside control box
  • Defective main board

What to do:

  1. Check breaker and GFCI; reset if tripped.
  2. Inspect power cord and connections.
  3. Replace fuse if blown (match exact rating).
  4. If still unpowered, main board may need professional repair or replacement.

Basic Reset Procedure

Sometimes a quick reset can clear false error lights:

  1. Turn off power to the SwimPure Plus at the breaker.
  2. Wait 30 seconds.
  3. Turn power back on and observe display.
  4. If errors persist, proceed with specific troubleshooting for the light or code shown.

Preventive Maintenance Tips

  • Test salt and chlorine levels weekly.
  • Clean cell every 3–6 months, or more often in high-calcium water.
  • Keep stabilizer levels in recommended range for salt pools.
  • Ensure pump run time is sufficient for chlorine production needs.
  • Inspect control box for signs of corrosion or moisture intrusion.

When to Call a Professional

Contact an authorized Hayward service center if:

  • Unit won’t power on after checking breakers, fuses, and wiring
  • Repeated “No Flow” light despite new or tested flow switch
  • Salt readings remain inaccurate after cleaning and recalibration
  • Visible damage or burning on circuit boards

Quick Recap

  • No Flow: Check pump, clean flow switch, verify orientation.
  • Check/Low Salt: Test salt, add if needed, clean cell.
  • Inspect Cell: Clean or replace cell, reset timer.
  • Low chlorine: Raise output, adjust CYA, shock if needed.
  • Wrong salt reading: Clean cell, verify with manual test, recalibrate.
  • No power: Check breaker, fuse, wiring, main board.

The SwimPure Plus is a dependable system when maintained regularly. By addressing warning lights quickly and keeping up with cleaning, you can avoid downtime and keep your pool water crystal clear with minimal effort.

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