The Pentair IntelliChlor salt chlorine generator is one of the most popular systems for keeping pool water clean and sanitized automatically. Instead of manually adding chlorine, it uses electrolysis to convert dissolved salt into chlorine gas, which instantly dissolves in water. When the IntelliChlor is running properly, pool care becomes much easier. But if warning lights appear, chlorine output drops, or readings seem off, it’s time to troubleshoot.
This guide covers the most common IntelliChlor issues, their causes, and how to fix them. You’ll also find maintenance tips to help prevent problems and keep your unit performing well season after season.
How the IntelliChlor Works
The IntelliChlor system consists of the salt cell and the power center (or automation system connection). Pool water passes through the cell, where titanium plates coated with precious metals produce chlorine through electrolysis. The control panel on the cell itself shows salt levels, chlorine output, cell status, and any active warnings. Sensors monitor water flow, temperature, and salinity, automatically stopping chlorine production if conditions are out of range.
Common IntelliChlor Problems and Solutions
1. “Low Salt” or “Add Salt” Light On
Symptoms: Light is illuminated or flashing, chlorine production is reduced or stopped.
Possible causes:
- Salt level below recommended range (ideal: 3,000–3,500 ppm)
- Cold water temperature causing sensor to misread
- Scale buildup on cell plates affecting conductivity
What to do:
- Test salt level with a reliable kit or digital meter—don’t rely solely on the cell’s display.
- Add pool-grade salt if level is low.
- In water colder than ~52°F (11°C), the system may reduce or stop chlorine production; wait for warmer temps.
- If salt level is fine, clean the cell to remove calcium buildup.
2. “High Salt” Light On
Symptoms: Light stays on, and system may stop producing chlorine.
Possible causes:
- Salt level above 4,500 ppm
- Sensor error due to scaling
- Improper salt addition without testing first
What to do:
- Test salt with a reliable meter.
- If too high, partially drain and refill pool to dilute salt.
- Clean the cell if scaling is visible.
3. “Cell” Light Flashing
Symptoms: Indicates that the cell needs inspection or cleaning.
Possible causes:
- Calcium or mineral buildup on cell plates
- Debris blocking water flow inside cell
- Cell nearing end of service life
What to do:
- Turn off pump and power to the cell.
- Remove cell and inspect plates.
- Clean with a mild acid solution (4:1 water to muriatic acid) for a few minutes—never scrape plates with metal tools.
- Rinse thoroughly before reinstalling.
- If plates are worn or coating is missing, replace the cell.
4. “Flow” Light Red or Flashing
Symptoms: The system detects low or no water flow and will not generate chlorine.
Possible causes:
- Pool pump off or running too slowly
- Dirty filter reducing flow
- Blocked cell or plumbing
- Faulty flow switch
What to do:
- Ensure the pump is running at the correct speed (especially with variable-speed pumps).
- Clean or backwash the filter.
- Inspect cell housing for obstructions.
- If flow light remains red after cleaning and checking pump, replace the flow switch.
5. Low or No Chlorine Production
Symptoms: Pool tests show low chlorine even though system shows normal operation.
Possible causes:
- Output setting too low
- High chlorine demand from heat, heavy use, or algae
- Low stabilizer (CYA) levels causing chlorine loss
- Dirty or aging cell
What to do:
- Increase chlorine output percentage on the control panel.
- If pool is cloudy or has algae, shock with liquid chlorine before resuming normal SWG use.
- Maintain CYA levels between 30–50 ppm for standard pools, 70–80 ppm for salt pools in sunny areas.
- Clean cell if needed; replace if production remains low after cleaning.
6. Inaccurate Salt Reading
Symptoms: Displayed salt level doesn’t match manual test results.
Possible causes:
- Scale or debris on cell plates
- Temperature-related sensor fluctuation
- Sensor calibration drift
What to do:
- Clean cell thoroughly.
- Verify salt with a manual test kit or digital meter before adding salt.
- Power cycle the unit to refresh readings.
7. No Lights or Power
Symptoms: IntelliChlor panel is completely dark.
Possible causes:
- Tripped breaker or blown fuse in power center
- Loose or corroded wiring
- Faulty power center or automation connection
What to do:
- Check circuit breaker and reset if tripped.
- Inspect wiring connections for corrosion or looseness.
- Verify power center is working by testing output voltage.
- If power center is fine, the cell’s internal board may need replacement.
Basic Reset Procedure
To reset the IntelliChlor:
- Turn off power to the system at the breaker.
- Wait 30 seconds.
- Turn power back on and allow the system to run self-diagnostics.
- Recheck lights and readings.
Maintenance Tips
- Test pool water weekly for salt, chlorine, pH, and stabilizer.
- Clean cell every 3–6 months, or more often in hard water areas.
- Keep pump run times long enough for chlorine production needs.
- Store system in a dry, shaded location during the off-season if applicable.
- Inspect wiring and connections for corrosion annually.
When to Call a Professional
Contact a Pentair service technician if:
- Flow or salt lights remain on despite correct water chemistry and flow
- Unit won’t power on after checking breakers and fuses
- Salt readings remain inaccurate after cleaning and resetting
- You see burn marks, melted plastic, or severe corrosion
Quick Recap
- Low salt: Test and add salt, clean cell.
- High salt: Dilute pool water, clean cell.
- Cell light: Clean or replace cell.
- Flow light red: Check pump, clean filter, inspect flow switch.
- Low chlorine: Raise output, adjust CYA, shock if needed.
- No power: Check breaker, wiring, power center.
The Pentair IntelliChlor is a dependable chlorination system when properly maintained. By learning what each light means and following these troubleshooting steps, you can often solve issues quickly and keep your pool water safe and inviting all season long.