AquaRite Salt System Troubleshooting: Full Homeowner’s Guide

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The Hayward AquaRite salt chlorine generator is one of the most common pool sanitizing systems in the U.S. It uses dissolved salt and a process called electrolysis to produce pure chlorine automatically, making pool care easier and more consistent. When it’s working properly, you enjoy clean, clear water without lugging heavy chlorine jugs or tablets. But if warning lights turn on, chlorine levels drop, or readings seem wrong, you’ll want to troubleshoot quickly.

This guide walks you through the most common AquaRite problems, explains what each control panel reading means, and shows you how to fix issues before they get worse. By the end, you’ll know exactly what to check first—and when to call in a pro.

How the AquaRite Works

The system consists of a control box and a cell (the electrolytic generator). Pool water flows through the cell, where charged titanium plates convert salt into chlorine. The control box powers the cell, monitors water chemistry, and displays information like salt level, temperature, voltage, and amperage. Internal safety sensors pause chlorine production when water flow, temperature, or salt levels are out of range.

Common AquaRite Problems and Fixes

1. “No Flow” Light On

Symptoms: “No Flow” LED stays lit or flashes, and chlorine production stops.

Possible causes:

  • Pool pump off or running too slowly
  • Dirty filter restricting water flow
  • Air leak in suction line
  • Faulty flow switch

What to do:

  1. Ensure the pump is on and running at adequate speed (for variable-speed pumps, try higher RPM).
  2. Clean or backwash the filter.
  3. Check pump lid O-ring and plumbing for air leaks.
  4. If the light remains on after 60 seconds of pump operation, inspect and replace the flow switch if needed.

2. “Check Salt” or “Low Salt” Light On

Symptoms: Light is steady or flashing, chlorine production reduced or stopped.

Possible causes:

  • Salt level below recommended 2,700–3,400 ppm range
  • Cold water affecting sensor accuracy
  • Scale buildup on cell plates

What to do:

  1. Test water with a reliable salt meter—don’t rely solely on the control box reading.
  2. Add pool-grade salt if needed, distributing evenly across the deep end with the pump running.
  3. If water temperature is below ~60°F, the system may reduce or stop production until warmer weather.
  4. Clean the cell if you see white or crusty deposits.

3. “High Salt” Light On

Symptoms: Light is steady, system may shut down production.

Possible causes:

  • Salt level above 4,000 ppm
  • Over-adding salt without testing
  • Sensor misreading due to scale or debris

What to do:

  1. Confirm salt level with a manual test.
  2. If too high, partially drain and refill pool to dilute.
  3. Clean the cell if deposits are present.

4. “Inspect Cell” Light On

Symptoms: Steady or flashing light, possibly reduced chlorine output.

Possible causes:

  • Scheduled reminder (steady light) every 500 operational hours
  • Scale buildup or debris inside the cell
  • Cell nearing end of life

What to do:

  1. Turn off the pump and power to the system.
  2. Disconnect and remove the cell.
  3. Inspect for white or tan scale on plates.
  4. Soak in a 4:1 water-to-muriatic acid mix for a few minutes until fizzing stops—never scrape the plates.
  5. Rinse thoroughly and reinstall.
  6. If the light remains after cleaning, the cell may need replacing.

5. Low or No Chlorine in Pool

Symptoms: Pool test shows low chlorine even though system appears to run normally.

Possible causes:

  • Output setting too low
  • High chlorine demand from heavy use, heat, or algae
  • Low stabilizer (CYA) level causing rapid chlorine loss
  • Worn or scaled cell

What to do:

  1. Increase chlorine output percentage on the control box.
  2. If pool has algae or cloudiness, shock with liquid chlorine first.
  3. Maintain CYA at 70–80 ppm for saltwater pools.
  4. Clean or replace the cell if needed.

6. Incorrect Readings on Display

Symptoms: Salt, temperature, or voltage readings seem wrong compared to manual tests.

Possible causes:

  • Dirty cell plates
  • Sensor drift or calibration needed
  • Cold water affecting readings

What to do:

  1. Clean the cell thoroughly.
  2. Power cycle the unit to refresh readings.
  3. Compare display readings to accurate manual test kits to determine accuracy.

7. No Power to Control Box

Symptoms: Display is blank, no lights, no clicks from relays.

Possible causes:

  • Tripped breaker or blown fuse
  • Loose wiring inside control box
  • Failed power supply board

What to do:

  1. Check pool equipment breaker panel and reset if tripped.
  2. Inspect fuse inside control box and replace if blown.
  3. If wiring and fuse are fine but there’s still no power, the main board may need replacement.

Maintenance Tips for Longer Life

  • Test water weekly for salt, pH, chlorine, and stabilizer.
  • Keep calcium hardness in range to minimize scale buildup.
  • Clean the cell at least twice per season, more often in hard water areas.
  • Run the pump long enough each day to meet chlorine demand.
  • Inspect flow switch and connections at least once a year.

When to Call a Professional

  • Persistent “No Flow” despite good circulation
  • Display readings way off after cleaning and resetting
  • No power after checking breakers and fuses
  • Signs of melted plastic, burned wiring, or corrosion inside the control box

Quick Recap

  • No Flow: Check pump, filter, air leaks, and flow switch.
  • Low Salt: Test and add salt, clean cell.
  • High Salt: Dilute water, clean cell.
  • Inspect Cell: Clean or replace if worn.
  • Low Chlorine: Increase output, adjust CYA, shock pool.
  • Wrong Readings: Clean cell, power cycle, retest.
  • No Power: Check breaker, fuse, wiring, board.

The AquaRite is a dependable chlorine generator when maintained properly. By knowing what each light means and following these troubleshooting steps, you can keep your pool clean, clear, and ready for swimming all season long.

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