Hayward Salt Generator Troubleshooting: Step-by-Step Homeowner’s Guide

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Hayward salt chlorine generators—like the AquaRite, AquaPlus, and SwimPure Plus—take the guesswork out of pool sanitation. They use dissolved salt and a process called electrolysis to produce chlorine automatically. When the system works correctly, your pool stays sparkling clear without hauling heavy chlorine jugs or storing tablets. But if you see warning lights, inconsistent readings, or low chlorine levels, it’s time to troubleshoot before problems worsen.

This guide covers the most common Hayward salt generator problems, what the control box lights mean, and how to fix issues quickly. You’ll also get preventative tips to help your generator last longer.

How a Hayward Salt Generator Works

The salt generator system has two main parts: the control box and the electrolytic cell. Pool water passes through the cell, where titanium plates receive a low electrical charge from the control box. This charge converts dissolved salt into chlorine. The control box monitors salt levels, temperature, and water flow to determine when and how much chlorine to produce.

Common Hayward Salt Generator Problems and Fixes

1. “Inspect Cell” Light On

Meaning: A service reminder every 500 hours of operation or a warning that the cell may be dirty or failing.

Possible causes:

  • Normal time-based reminder
  • Scale buildup on cell plates
  • Debris lodged in the cell
  • Cell nearing end of life

Fix:

  1. Turn off pump and power to the system.
  2. Remove and inspect the cell for white scale or debris.
  3. Clean using a 4:1 water-to-muriatic-acid solution for a few minutes—never scrape plates.
  4. Rinse thoroughly and reinstall.
  5. Hold the “Diagnostic” button for 5 seconds to reset the light.

2. “Check Salt” or “Low Salt” Light

Meaning: Salt level below the recommended 2,700–3,400 ppm range.

Possible causes:

  • Not enough salt in pool water
  • Cold water affecting readings
  • Dirty cell or faulty sensor

Fix:

  1. Test salt level with a reliable meter—don’t rely solely on the control box reading.
  2. Add pool-grade salt if needed, spreading it evenly with the pump running.
  3. If water is below 60°F, the system may under-read and slow output until it warms.
  4. Clean the cell if dirty.

3. “High Salt” Light

Meaning: Salt level above safe range (usually 4,000 ppm or higher).

Possible causes:

  • Too much salt added
  • Sensor error due to dirty plates

Fix:

  1. Confirm salt level with a manual test.
  2. Drain and refill part of the pool to dilute salt level if necessary.
  3. Clean the cell and recheck reading.

4. Low or No Chlorine in Pool

Possible causes:

  • Cell output set too low
  • High chlorine demand from heavy use, heat, or algae
  • Low stabilizer (CYA) causing chlorine loss
  • Worn or failing cell

Fix:

  1. Increase output percentage on the control box.
  2. Shock the pool with liquid chlorine to remove algae.
  3. Maintain stabilizer at 70–80 ppm for saltwater pools.
  4. Clean or replace the cell if it’s at the end of its life.

5. Incorrect Readings

Symptoms: Salt, temperature, or voltage readings are clearly off.

Possible causes:

  • Dirty cell affecting sensors
  • Cold water skewing measurements
  • Failing control board or sensor

Fix:

  1. Clean the cell thoroughly.
  2. Compare display readings to manual test results.
  3. If readings remain inaccurate, the control board or sensor may need replacement.

6. “No Cell” or Cell Not Detected

Possible causes:

  • Loose or corroded cable connections
  • Wrong cell type selected in settings
  • Defective cell or control board

Fix:

  1. Check and clean the cable connectors.
  2. Verify correct cell type in control box menu.
  3. Test with a known working cell to confirm if the original is faulty.

Preventative Maintenance

  • Test salt, chlorine, pH, and stabilizer weekly.
  • Keep calcium hardness in range to prevent scale.
  • Clean the cell 1–3 times per season (more in hard water areas).
  • Store cell indoors during winter in freezing climates.

When to Call a Professional

  • Warning lights persist after cleaning and balancing
  • No chlorine production despite high output and proper chemistry
  • Control box smells burnt or has visible damage
  • Display errors that won’t clear with reset

Quick Recap

  • Inspect Cell: Clean and reset, replace if worn.
  • Low Salt: Test, add salt, clean cell.
  • High Salt: Dilute water, clean cell.
  • No Chlorine: Raise output, shock pool, check CYA.
  • Wrong Readings: Clean cell, compare with manual tests.
  • No Cell: Check cables, settings, test with another cell.

A Hayward salt generator can run for many years with consistent maintenance. By learning what each warning light means and taking quick action, you can keep chlorine production steady and your pool water in perfect shape all season.

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